The bus journey from Lviv to Krakow, meant to take 6 and a half hours, took over 10 hours due to the wait at the border crossing.
I had similar struggles getting on this bus as I did when trying to get on the one leaving Krakow, and the problems of language barrier were intensified by the fact that it was 2:50 in the morning and the bus was jam-packed (unlike my near-empty bus in). Again, I was the only Brit on the bus. Fortunately, one of the passengers was able to speak a bit of English and acted as a translator between the driver and me.
There was a very different feeling leaving the country as opposed to entering it. People seemed much more impatient and keener to arrive at the destination. While I was on the bus, after getting some sleep, I reflected on my short time in the country.
It was not what I was expecting. Though I was aware that the city I was heading too was one of the safer places in Ukraine, I was surprised by the optimistic and lively nature of Lviv the second I arrived. The music, the youth culture, and the vivacity of the city made it difficult to comprehend the war climate. The curfew, the air raid alarms, and the blackouts were jarring reminders of the severity of everything, but it was fascinating to see first-hand how the locals have adapted to this new reality. Before going to Lviv, I had people asking me whether I was worried, or they panicked on my behalf. It’s a mistake to let yourself be governed by fear — I was there for less than 2 weeks, there are people living there on a permanent basis.
Of course, there are risks involved, and it was a shock to see in the news that Lviv endured air attacks yesterday. Having forged strong connections with people has changed the way I respond to media relating to Lviv also. The humanitarian communities are filled with fascinating people, and as a solo traveller, I felt welcomed instantly.
There is a strong sense of nationalism that pervades the Lviv culture and is perhaps what keeps the atmosphere of the city an uplifting one. I had expected to see a strong sense of unity, but maybe underestimated the scale of the morale.
Returning home was a bitter-sweet experience, and I was stunned by quite how fast my time there had gone by. I cannot recommend seeing the city with your own eyes enough. This experience has been genuinely life-changing. I feel honoured to have made a small contribution, and I feel as though I have returned as a much more educated and informed person.
ARK Annual Members Riverbank Walk
